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Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Strange Invisible Perfumes Epic Gardenia: Perfume Review

The floral trio, launched by SIP this spring, which, alng with Epic Gardenia, includes Aquarian Roses and Urban Lily, comes with the promise of embracing "the eccentric nuances of flowers", illuminating "the facets that are too often ignored". (from SIP press release) As far as gardenia is concerned, in perfumery, it is mostly portrayed as creamy, heady and sweet (Chanel's, Molinard's, Il Profumo's Gardenia Royal, Goutal's Gardenia Passion...). Some lines surprise with an airy, breezy interpretation (Goutal's new Un Matin d'Orage, Guerlain's Cruel Gardenia). A couple of renditions dare to bring to light the flower's earthy darkness (JAR Jardenia, Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia). Alexandra Balahoutis puts a "humid" twist on her gardenia.

"Humid, velvety" is the way the creator herself describes the scent, and that really is the most fitting description. The humid part is equal parts raw-earthy and sultry-floral, with a touch of something indeed slightly wet...it's that feeling of thrilling heaviness in the air, just before the heavy rain falls and greedily consumes the earth. I love the beginning of the scent, which has a surprising fruity undertone. In the top notes of Epic Gardenia I imagine I smell the tart candied-ness of black currants; the fruitiness segues into the sweet floral heart, where immediately that humid aspect becomes apparent. That subtle raw feel cuts through the typical creaminess of gardenia, rendering the aroma less opulent and heady than usual. The overall effect it strange and harmonious. My only complaint- and I rarely complain about this!- is that the fragrance does not last; half an hour after application I practically cannot smell it at all. Having said that, it might be a novelette, not an epic, but its soft, odd beauty is worth the bother of re-applying.

Available at Siperfumes.com and Barneys, $175.00-$210.00.

Image source, rodneysmith.com.

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24 Comments:

Blogger Flora said...

Okay, this sounds fabulous, but I cannot imagine a GARDENIA perfume that only lasts 30 minutes!? Most of them have the half-life of Uranium 235 - which is a good thing for me. :-D

9:43 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

D,
I know! Maybe it's just my skin.

9:44 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Очень интересное фото, как будто Магритт фотографировал.

10:04 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Действительно, если посмотришь на сайт Rodney Smith, похоже, Магритт был источником вдохновения.

10:05 PM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

I adore that feeling of heaviness in the air before a storm and you have perfectly captured the unique spin AB has put on gardenias. I bought the edp, but afterwards ordered a sample of the parfum. I should have waited and purchased the parfum, as I've always much prefer her scents in that form and that holds true w/ this one as well. I don't find the edp to be *too* fleeting on my skin, but the parfum definitely lasted longer when I tried it.

10:30 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

L,
Does it smell very different in parfum?

10:32 PM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

No, not *very* different (not as much as w/ Prima Ballerina), but it w/out doubt has a deeper, richer, somewhat more complex feel. I will probably eventually have to get the parfum.

11:02 PM EDT  
Anonymous Lavanya said...

"it's that feeling of thrilling heaviness in the air, just before the heavy rain falls and greedily consumes the earth"

ooh - I love that feeling- And you described it perfectly- I could actually feel the humid air..
I need to try this perfume!

11:05 PM EDT  
Anonymous Noah said...

Consumes the earth? I better dust off the ark.

11:07 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

L,
OK, so this is the way to go then, great to know, thank you!

11:09 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Lavanya,
I think you will like it. At least, you will find it interesting.

11:09 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Noah,
It was just an image, not a prophecy :-) But yeah, better be prepared.

11:10 PM EDT  
Anonymous Brenda said...

I live in an apartment near a river that runs through my city. Yesterday I went jogging on the promenade that runs beside the water, lumbering through the sultry morning mist. The air was ripe with the smell of the river, carrying along hints of wet earth and Spring flowers drifting over from the park on the other side of the path. Your divine description of gardenia reminds me of the my run. Now if only "Epic Gardenia" held the answer of from what I am running ;-)

By the way, the picture- very Magrittesque.

12:41 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Brenda,
Yes, as a Russian commenter above pointed out as well, very Magrittesque.
I hope that you are running towards and not from, as that is a much nicer feeling. And it is nice that you have time to jog. :-)

1:02 AM EDT  
Anonymous Brenda said...

Then the Russian commentator and I must have a similar way of seeing things ;-) Perhaps you should introduce me, though I don't have a ton of time- my work keeps me busy during the day, and unfortunately, too often at night ;-(

1:10 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Brenda- Anonymois, Anonymous- Brenda. There you go, guys. :-) My duty of a hostess is done. Enjoy the refreshments. :-)

1:13 AM EDT  
Blogger Tammy said...

Hmmm...this may be a gardenia I can wear.

Generally, the only other way I can wear gardenia is to pick an outfit on a Monday, spritz it with the gardenia fragrance, hang the outfit in the garage, where it won't threaten anyone, until Thursday morning, then hope and pray the spritzed portion doesn't brush against my skin as I'm getting dressed, lest my skin amp it back up to Monday's straight-outta-the-bottle strength...

7:08 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Tammy,
Love that, so funny! :-))

7:12 AM EDT  
Anonymous Trish said...

I really enjoy Epic Gardenia as well, and get a good deal of woods and her botanical musc in the drydown. And it lasts at least a half a day on me. Maybe I'll try it again today, and report back. Will make sure my memory serves me correctly!!

11:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Trish,
I would love for it to last that long on me! :-(

11:20 AM EDT  
Anonymous Trish said...

It's 5 hours later and still going.....

Not so much on the woods this time though

~T

5:49 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Trish,
Maybe I need to try parfum, wonder if that is stronger.

9:33 AM EDT  
Anonymous Trish said...

Mine's the EDP, but yes, maybe the parfum would be better for you?

Did you give it a good blast in your cleavage? LOL

12:22 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ой, как же мне нравистя Ваши посты читать :) Вы так здорово описываете запахи, что впечатление создается, будто я их сама чувствую.
Спасибо за этот чудесный блог.

6:47 AM EDT  

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